Forty Years in the Knights Valley

Mother Nature had her own artist-in-residence program long before the Michael family came to this valley. Near the tippy-top of the property sits a 16-ton boulder that now serves as a signpost to the Ma Belle-Fille vineyard. Perhaps as good as any art installation on the property, the mass of volcanic rhyolite makes you stop and think. That boulder and countless others were moved to make way for vines, an endeavor emblematic of what Sir Peter Michael calls America’s “can-do” attitude.

The boulder also represents the enormous amount of work that it took to establish these mountainside vineyards. The boulder’s vantage point, some 2,000 feet above sea level, provides a sweeping view of the estate and the vineyards below. “When I stand at that rock and look over the vineyards from the top of Ma Belle-Fille, particularly during harvest, I just think what a miraculous site it is,” ruminates Sir Peter before adding, “And I can sit back and feel pleased about what has happened.”

This year marks the fortieth anniversary of Sir Peter and Lady Michael’s vision to reinterpret Mother Nature’s plans for the land while still respecting her original handiwork. Interspersed among the sprawling 750-acre estate are 149 acres of vines, with more than half the land earmarked as a wildlife preserve, including ancient redwood groves, native manzanita and madrone trees, and coyote brush.

For many, forty years would be a life’s work, but one has to consider the long game when it comes to land ownership. After all, it took fifteen years of labor before the business ever turned a profit. “It was a white-knuckle ride,” recalls Sir Peter, adding, “But eventually, we got the formula, and I think we can be justifiably proud.”

Before developing the extensive hillside Chardonnay vineyard plantings, Sir Peter trusted then–caretaker and ranch manager Alan Peirson to transform portions of the vast landscape for the Michael family’s enjoyment. “Peter set the tone for everything he wanted going on here,” says Peirson, noting that Sir Peter told him that he wanted to come and watch the place grow every year. “A lot of things we did were serendipitous or on the spot,” he says, recalling the original plans for the suspension bridge being drawn on a napkin. Peirson established native gardens, supervised the planting of thousands of trees, and created a series of pathways that the Michael family and staff have enjoyed for years, among many other tasks.

“I remember driving up to the lake before we put the vineyard in—there were cows and turkeys everywhere, and the Cadillac we had was scraping on undergrowth and ditches. Now you go there and it’s pristine and connected,” says Sir Peter’s son, Paul.

Patience and support are tenets that run through every aspect of the property. It’s taken four decades to achieve the aesthetic that you see now. And that includes the vineyards. Javier Aviña, the winery’s vineyard manager since 1991, has a keen understanding of every aspect of the operation. “Every day involves learning each corner and hill,” says Aviña. He speaks equally passionately about soil composition and row orientation as he does reservoirs, drainage, and keeping the estate in balance. The confidence, support, and patience bestowed upon him and the Peter Michael staff give everyone the self-assurance to achieve the best results. “Working thirty years for the family, I can say I couldn’t have made a better choice,” says Aviña, adding, “Year after year, I see the improvement, and to be able to complete this in my lifetime and see results is great.”

Thanks to the family’s patient dedication to the land, their vision, and the people who have made it all possible, this anniversary signals a turning point for the next forty years. Referencing the family’s “100 × 100” vision—100 percent family ownership for 100 years—Paul’s wife, Emily (the namesake of the Ma Belle-Fille vineyard), says that this property is not just a business but also a home. “[We’re] fortunate that we’re creating longevity for future generations, and about getting it right,” she says. “And a hundred years isn’t very long.”

With the next generation, consisting of Paul and Emily at the helm, and perhaps the subsequent generation (their children, Elliot, Anna, and Mylo) contributing soon, the winery is poised for dedicated, continuous land stewardship. Paul says that teaching his children to respect the land is just as important as their knowing the business side of things. “They need to love it and understand it’s not just a day job,” he says, stating that they have to go out into the world and work out who they are. He hopes that, eventually, over time, they keep visiting and loving the land and the business the same way he does. “Forty years is a lot in the wine business, but there’s a long way to go,” he adds.